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Rome’s Esquilino Neighbourhood
The bustling rione of history, diversity, and grit
One of Rome’s famous ‘Seven Hills’, Esquilino is an ancient neighborhood with a vibrant and multicultural present. In Esquilino you will find a little bit of everything: plenty of history, as it began as the home to the semi-mythical Ancient Roman King, Servius Tullius, and is dotted with ancient walls and ruins; religious significance, from the magnificent Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore; 19th century Italian architecture, in the famous colonnade of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; and a food scene where Roman trattorias sit next to some of the city’s best international kitchens.
Esquilino is home to many of Rome’s immigrant communities, and you feel it everywhere, from the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, where Roman cheeses share the stalls with Indian spices and Asian vegetables, to the Chinese and Indian restaurants around Piazza Vittorio.
The neighborhood also comes alive after dark: natural wine bars and late-night cocktail spots along Via Machiavelli, jazz evenings at the Gatsby Café, DJ sets and open-air cinema in the gardens of Piazza Vittorio. Just outside the tourist center and a short walk from Termini, Esquilino feels grounded and real, which is exactly why Time Out named it one of the ten coolest neighborhoods in the world in 2026.
It’s also a practical base for a stay in Rome: Termini, with both metro lines and the train to Fiumicino Airport, is on the doorstep, Monti is a few minutes’ walk away and the Colosseum about 20 minutes on foot. As around any major train station, the streets closest to Termini call for a little extra attention late at night, while the rest of the neighborhood is lively and residential.
It’s also where Pope Francis chose to be buried. Since April 2025, his simple tomb in Santa Maria Maggiore, a slab of Ligurian marble inscribed only with “Franciscus”, has made the basilica a fixed stop on almost every Rome itinerary.
Read on for the best things to see in Esquilino, then head to our guides on where to eat and where to drink in the neighborhood.
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Best Things to See in Esquilino
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II
Built in the aftermath of Italy’s reunification, this piazza is surrounded by Italian palaces and 19th-century style porticoes. Walking under these grand rows of columns, which outline one of the largest piazzas in Rome, you will encircle the garden in its center. The garden itself is dotted with ruins; the remains of an Ancient Roman fountain, the Trophies of Marius. On a sunny day, the park comes alive, a showcase of a vibrant and still-local neighborhood surrounded by history. The piazza is also home to a legend: the Magic Gate. Once the door to the grand Villa Palombara, it is said that an alchemist found a secret herb, capable of creating gold, right before disappearing through the door forever. He left behind a series of indecipherable symbols, carved onto the gate; other than that, all that remained were a few flecks of gold and mystery.
Mercato Esquilino
Via Principe Amedeo, 184
Open 5am – 3pm every day except Sunday
Housed in a sprawling indoor warehouse near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the Mercato Esquilino is a market that bustles with energy as locals and vendors shout, haggle, and weave through tightly packed stalls. The market is a colorful amalgamation of fresh produce, exotic spices, international ingredients, and imported goods from across Asia, Africa, and the Middle East, reflecting the diverse communities that call the area home. It’s a chaotic but fascinating glimpse into the daily life and global flavor of Esquilino. Bring a good appetite, and cash.
St. Mary Major
Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42
One of Rome’s four Papal Basilicas, this magnificent church is the burial place for eight Popes, including the late Pope Francis. It is rich with decoration: lined with columns, adorned with gold and embellished with a mixture of Paleochristian and Medieval mosaics. The Basilica houses many important relics, including the Salus Populi Romani, a painting of Mary said to have been made by Saint Luke, so sacred and important that upon its arrival in Rome it was paraded through the streets for three days. For those who care more for art than religion, in the church you will find the grave of Bernini, one of Rome’s greatest sculptors, and Arnolfo di Cambio’s nativity scene – the first nativity scene ever in art history. The extravagant basilica, more than 1600 years old, is undeniably impressive.
San Vito Church
Via Carlo Alberto, 47
This small church curiously features two distinct facades: one made of marble and the other of ancient brick. The brick facade is part of the original Servian Walls, Rome’s ancient defensive fortifications, and is connected to the Arch of Gallieno, a remnant of the Porta Esquilina, the historic Esquiline Gate. The marble facade dates back to the late 15th century, when Pope Sixtus IV established the church. Offering a fascinating window into Rome’s layered history, this church also has a darker side; its “Stone of Iniquity” was used as a torture device against Christian martyrs.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana, 121
Open Wed- Fri 12pm-8pm | Sat-Sun 10am-8pm
A grand building in Umbertine style, Palazzo Merulana is a cultural hub, art gallery, bookstore and cafè. Housing mostly Roman and Italian artworks, the chic space explores 20th century art. The sculpture-filled lobby and its café is perfect for people-watching or studying, and after wandering through its dedicated exhibition floors, head up to the terrace to enjoy skyline views of the Eternal City.
Teatro Brancaccio
Via Merulana, 244
Teatro Brancaccio stands as one of Rome’s principal and most recognizable theatres, a cornerstone of the city’s performing arts scene. In line with the vibrance of the neighborhood, it has played a central role in Roman cultural life since its opening in 1916. It hosts everything from musicals and comedy to dance and big-name concerts.
Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di S. Croce in Gerusalemme
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme is an extraordinarily old church, originally built in 324 AD as a chapel to house sacred relics. Before that, the site had many lives: an Imperial villa, an amphitheatre, and the residence of Helen, mother of Constantine. The Chapel of Relics still holds a copy of the Holy Shroud, pieces of the crucifixion cross, and thorns from Christ’s crown. The church reflects the evolution of Roman art and architecture, from its Baroque design to an Ancient Roman statue on the altarpiece, reworked to depict Helen.
Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede, 9A
A tiny church, tucked away around the corner of its imposing neighbour, Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Prassede is a hidden gem. Considered the masterpiece of Early Medieval Rome, its Byzantine mosaics are some of the oldest in the city, and were executed by artists all the way from Constantinople. It tells the story of the relationship between the two Roman Empires, and the diplomatic and religious ties which formed the early Church.
Where to Eat in Esquilino
Esquilino is a good neighborhood for eating well without spending much. Century-old trattorias like Trattoria Vecchia Roma and Trattoria Monti sit a few streets from Chinese hot pot, Indian kitchens, historic bakeries and Gelateria Fassi, open since 1880.
See our full guide to where to eat in Esquilino
Best Bars in Esquilino
From natural wine bars on Via Machiavelli and historic enoteche to a garden café inside Piazza Vittorio and a rooftop overlooking Santa Maria Maggiore, Esquilino has a bar for every hour of the day.
See our guide to the best bars in Esquilino
entury-old trattorias, Chinese hot pot, Indian kitchens and Rome’s oldest gelato, all a short walk from Termini.
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